Starting September 1, beauty salons across Europe were forced to pull popular gel nail products off their shelves after the European Union imposed a sweeping ban on a chemical linked to fertility and reproductive health risks.

The ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), is widely used in gel nail polishes to achieve their signature glossy finish and quick-drying effect under UV or LED lights. While the compound has been a staple in nail salons since the 2000s, EU regulators classified it as “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction,” prompting a continent-wide ban on its sale, marketing, and use in cosmetics.

“Working families are struggling,” dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman told Wellness Pulse, explaining that the move was less about conclusive human studies and more about protecting against potential harm. “From a medical perspective, I view this as more of a precautionary move rather than a response to strong human evidence.”

The ban has sparked frustration among importers and beauty professionals, who argue the deadline came too quickly for them to source TPO-free alternatives. “No exceptions, no time limit for selling products” means salons must immediately discard their stock.

The EU’s stricter stance is not unprecedented. The bloc has long banned chemicals still allowed in the United States, including certain food additives and preservatives. In this case, TPO will continue to be permitted in U.S. cosmetics, where it remains unregulated.

For American consumers worried about exposure, experts advise requesting TPO-free products, spacing out gel manicures, and ensuring nail applications are performed in well-ventilated spaces.

But TPO isn’t the only concern tied to gel manicures. Studies have also warned about the risks of UV light used to cure polish — which may damage skin cells — and the potential for nail damage when gels lift, creating gaps where bacteria can grow. One such pathogen, Pseudomonas, leaves nails discolored green or blue and can lead to serious infections in vulnerable individuals.

Despite these warnings, gel manicures remain hugely popular, with more than 100 million American women using nail products each year. The EU’s move is likely to intensify global debate over cosmetic safety standards — and whether U.S. regulators will eventually follow Europe’s lead.